THE AMALFI COAST

Plates in Praiano

Part One

When you reach the Amalfi Coast, you are immediately transported back in time and dropped into the pages of a lemon-scented 50’s romance narrative. Illustrated with fresco mural paintings and all the sophistication of a vintage Bond movie.

Impossibly narrow roads lead the way from Sorrento to Salerno, lined with cascading cliffside villages, 10th-century chapels and historical fishing communities. In amongst the hidden streets, gardens and coves, you will find some of the greatest examples of traditional Italian produce that is proudly exhibited on the decorative dining plate of the Amalfi. Every corner you turn you are presented with awe-inspiring aesthetic, which makes it my favourite place on earth. In this series, we will be reflecting on a carb-filled culinary adventure from Positano to Ravello.

Photography & Words

Ben Pickles

Praiano

The next village along after the eminent Positano, Praiano is very quiet, subtle and sophisticated without pretension. A small unaffected slice of the ‘real’ Amalfi Coast, with what can only be explained as a local atmosphere. Village elders climb up winding stone steps with baskets of fresh tomatoes and back down with fresh Agerola Buffalo Mozzarella. The small clusters of restaurants here are quaint, traditional and considered with their own garden terraces, taking proud ownership over their menu’s. After exploring the majority of the towns and villages on the coast it is safe to say the sleepy fishing village of Praiano is one of our favourites.

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Kasai, Praiano

From the top of the lookout point in Praiano, you can see along the coast both East and West. Here, you will find KASAI open for lunch and evening sittings. The outdoor tables sit roadside welcoming endless coastline views with waiters dodging Vespas as they bring bread baskets across the street.

Traditional and rustic with tasteful contemporary accents Kasai has real charm. Not unlike any other restaurant on the Amalfi, Kasai speaks fluently in the language of organic vegetables and local seafood.

The Eggplant Parmigiana here is one made with great attention to texture and delicacy. Perfect layers of olive silked eggplant, bound together in Parmigiana. Basil oil and Parmigiana shavings dress the dish on large plates more than suitable for sharing whilst taking in the views. Red squid is always popular on the menu but we often explore the truffle dishes that consistently have us melting into our chairs.

Kasai often experiments with new concepts and approaches to dishes. It is not uncommon to arrive and find a simplified and seasonal small plate menu.

The wine list presents a selection from all over the Sorrentine peninsular. We found great bottles of Falanghina here which take pride of place along this part of the coast. Iconic to the region of Campania and ancient lineage, you can’t really go wrong with the grapes of local vineyard terraces. Falanghina is lengthy, tart and full with sweet citrus acidity. A wise choice to compliment to the abundance of carbs, truffle and local seafood.

As you pace down the coastal roads you are drawn in by the allure of narrow alleys and never-ending pathways leading to the water. In Praiano, these quaint walkways lead to the small cove of Marina di Praia where a few restaurants etched into the rock, serve traditional coastal cuisine from the cliff face. The most idyllic spot for a Frutti Di Mare, Aperol Spritz and an amateur cliff dive into the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Il Pirata, Marina Di Praia

The Il Pirata restaurant cuts into the cliffside, named as a little nod to the historic stories of the cove. We are drawn back here for life-changing pasta dishes and postcard scenery.

Perched by the water you are presented with plenty of options to explore the fresh Mussels, clams and octopus alongside a carbonara that is nothing short of pure traditional mastery.

You can sit here for hours watching the wooden fishing boats bob along against the dramatic backdrop of coastline and 11th-century watchtowers. The wine cave is equally as exciting and is home to some rare bottles of Falanghina and Greco di Tufo from Campania. Pulling the cork on one of these is a non-negotiable requirement to dull the aches of the steep hike home.

Next: Positano, Ravello, Capri.

Featured: Walkways in Praiano leading to the water.

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